Feeding the Family


A casual dinner by the Willamette River.

Regina, Bennet, Vivian, and I visited my father and step-mother in Portland, Oregon last week. Dad and Joan have an absolutely gorgeous place by on the east bank of the Willamette River. Their house is set on a bluff overlooking a wide expanse of perfect lawn that leads down to the river bank. My father is a dedicated plant man and he’s got stunning vegetable beds, fruit trees, and grape vines growing vigorously on their property. Kale and tomatoes, lettuces and potatoes, rosemary, lavender, fig, eucalyptus, red chard, bartlett pear, apples, and more. In the eight years they’ve been in Oregon they’ve managed to create and maintain a home that is inviting and charming and that’s a reflection of their progressive thoughts on nature, food, health, light, and community. And on a late summer afternoon there’s nothing better than sipping a glass of my Dad’s homemade white wine and watching rowing sculls flit across the river’s surface, competing occasionally with the wake-making antics of jet-skiers. Birds loop in the blue skies, adopted fuzzball cats get fresh with your legs, a breeze stirs the perfect green beans clinging from their trellis, the occasional passenger jet carves contrails impossibly high above us. It’s all so perfect. So perfect, in fact, that Regina and I got married on these fair premises last summer.


Always superb salmon can be found in the Northwest.

When we visit I usually try to cook one good meal for my family; we only seem to have time for one as we always have so much on our plate — other friends and family to see, zoos to visit, and breweries to tour. We like to eat outside, watch the sunset, play board games as we nibble dessert, and perhaps sip a little cheap sherry (that would be only my father and me) as we yak about our lives, politics, and what-have-you. This past week talk of politics, the food industry, my much-missed absent sisters, and (naturally) The Olympics dominated. We try to make the most of what Dad and Joan’s garden has to offer, we take a casual pace, and we enjoy each other’s company.

Joan and Jeff (my bro) contributed some excellent Coho salmon — each filet about a pound, very lean, but very fresh. Full of pin bones, even though I yanked out most of them. I patted-dry the fish very well, cut the filets down to individual pieces, and seasoned them with sea salt, pepper, and a big pinch of some random Penzey’s spice mix (maybe like a poultry seasoning) that Joan had in her cooking arsenal. I cooked the filets by first searing the fish skin-side down in a very hot skillet with some olive oil. After the skin was crisped I then flipped the pieces and cooked the other side about a minute. I then transferred the par-cooked pieces to a baking dish. The baking dish I popped into the oven and finished the fish at 375º F for about five minutes.

The fish was just cooked through, moist and delicious.


A simple salad — romaine, tomato, radish, etc.

Our salad was definitely a family affair. Jeff contributed a perfect large Persian cucumber from his yard-garden, Joan added a bulb of fennel and a head of fresh romaine from her lettuce bed, and just that morning I’d gotten a few excellent tomatoes, celery, and radishes from the small but very inviting Milwaukie Farmer’s Market. At the market I also picked up some great local and organic goat-milk feta cheese. I whipped up a simple cider vinaigrette with some garlic, shallot, and a bit of minced fennel frond (and S&P, of course).

I (mostly) peeled, seeded, and chopped the cuke. I shaved the fennel and soaked it briefly in cold water to firm it up. I cut, soaked, and spun-dry the romaine. Cut the tomatoes, finely cut some celery, shaved some radishes, crumbled the sublime and creamy feta. I tossed everything together with some of the dressing. Basically a Greek-style salad with no olives or peppers, it was light and refreshing and complemented the fish perfectly.


Potatoes fresh out of the ground are the best!

Dad dug up some potatoes from a mixed patch that yielded some good glossy reds, some Peruvian purples, and a few starchy Russet-style baker-types. After hosing them down, drying them off, and cutting the spuds down to similar sizes (think 3/4-inch thick cubes, about) I tossed them (in a big bowl) in melted butter and olive oil. Over the top I sprinkled generous amounts of kosher salt and cracked black pepper. I also threw in some minced herbs from Joan’s herb pots — fresh rosemary, a bit of fresh lavender, lemon thyme, marjoram, and parsley. A couple large cloves of garlic, crushed and chopped, completed the potato seasoning. I spread the taters in a roasting pan and cooked them at 400ºF for about 35 minutes, until the potatoes were browned and crisp on the edges but soft in the middle. I turned and tossed and moved the potatoes around a couple of times during the roasting to ensure even cooking.

Everyone loved the potatoes, and it’s a good thing I made a whole lot as we ended up eating them the next day as well! The dish wasn’t particularly hard to make or inventive. It’s  all about fresh potatoes. Fresh potatoes are heads above your typical grocery store spuds. They are moister, richer, earthier, and butterier. Just excellent. And according to Dad, pretty much toil-free as a home crop.


Very simple sauteed green beans.

Earlier that day Joan had picked some green beans. I trimmed these and blanched them in boiling salted water for about four minutes until tender. I shocked them in a ice bath to stop the cooking and then then drained them very well. I cut the beans into two-to-three-inch lengths. About five minutes before dinner time I heat up a big sauté pan and lightly browned (over medium-high heat) some chopped onion and garlic in a combination of butter and olive oil. I threw in the beans and cooked them for another minute. I added a splash of white wine (New Zealand Sauv Blanc), stirred the beans, and served them.


Excellent lemon-garlic fettucine with butter, parmesan, lemon zest, and fresh breadcrumbs.

At the Milwaukie Farmer’s Market I also picked up a pound of very good organic linguine infused with lemon and garlic. First step in making this dish was toasting some homemade fresh breadcrumbs. I cut the crust off of a chunk of stale baguette and then cut the interior of the bread into smaller pieces, about a half-inch in size. I put the bread into a food processor and pulsed it down into crumbs. I then sautéed the crumbs in butter and olive oil until nice-and-crunchy; I pulled the crumbs from the pan and held them until later.

I set up a pot of salted water to cook the pasta. I set up another big sauté pan and melted a generous plug of butter in a couple of tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil over medium heat. Into the oils I added two cloves of coarsely garlic & once minced shallot. I cooked the garlic and shallot about a minute until softened and then turned off the gas. When the water boiled I cooked the noodles to al dente.

I drained the noodles but I retained a half-cup of the pasta-cooking liquid in a measuring cup. I put the hot drained linguine into the butter-olive oil mixture and tossed it well. I turned the heat up to high and added the cup of pasta-water. I threw in a handful of chopped red chard and about 5 basil leaves, which I tore up by hand. Over the noodles I added two tablespoons of lemon zest and the juice of one lemon. Using a pair of tongs I mixed the noodles to get everything together and then tested for seasoning. I added a bit of salt, a whole bunch of black pepper, and 1 cup of grated parmesan. I killed the heat, stirred the cheese in, and transferred the pasta to a big serving bowl. Finally, as a garnish, I topped the linguine with a big handful of toasted breadcrumbs. Voila! Garlic & lemon linguine with butter, chard, basil, parmesan & crisp breadcrumbs.


Sitting down to a fine meal with fine people (clockwise from left): Jeff, Bennet, Regina, me, Vivian, Joan. (Missing from this photo: Dad, who took the pic, and my sister-in-law Kate, who had to work.)

Jeff brought some homemade beer (pretty yummy!) and we also drank lemonade and one of my personal faves — Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc (pretty decent and relatively cheap NZ white). For dessert we had this delicious crostata made from organic nectarines and a partially whole-wheat crust, which came out a tiny bit tough. I made a basic pate brisée but I think I screwed up the proportions of fat-to-flour. C’est la vie. Even the best of us screw up from time to time. Best of all, we topped off the crostata with vanilla ice cream from Graeter’s out of Cincinnati. Good, ole-fashioned iced cream.

Seriously, is there anything better than good food and family? Well, the view helped too. And the wine.


Fresh nectarine crostata. Yummy!

Skillet Green Beans with Garlic & Cashews

A hot skillet makes everything taste great.

This side dish was one of those off-the-cuff veggie things that I do on occasion.

The dish started with schmaltz. Schmaltz is the Yiddish word for rendered chicken fat, which is used as a cooking oil in kosher-keeping kitchens. It makes a great cooking oil, lending robust flavor to anything that’s cooked in it. Often, when I make a big vat of chicken broth, I’ll cool the broth overnight to remove the fat. The fat rises to the surface and can be pulled off in chunks after it solidifies at refrigerator temperatures. I’ll melt this chicken fat and strain it very well, leaving behind a highly-flavored (and highly-cholesteral-laden) cooking medium. It’s great to pan-fry anything — from eggs to chicken cutlets to veggies. So anyway, I had some schmaltz on hand, a nice supply of good green beans, and a little know-how.

I heated my trusty seasoned skillet over medium high until a droplet of water splashed on the hot surface skittered and hissed away instantaneously. I added a tablespoon of the chicken fat and about 12 thin slices of fresh garlic. The garlic browned very quickly, and when it did I threw in some raw (trimmed) green beans. I added about two tablespoons of dry white wine and covered the pan to steam the beans. After about one minute I uncovered the skillet and seasoned the green beans with plenty of salt and pepper. I added a tablespoon of butter and stirred it around. After a couple of minutes, when the beans got a little wrinkly and slightly browned, I tossed in a big handful of roasted cashews. I cooked that another thirty seconds or so and then removed the beans from the pan. It was dinnertime!

This yummy side dish made a perfect accompaniment for crispy pork chops. I think it would be nice with chicken or steak or fish as well!



Simple Veggie Medley: White Corn + Peas + Green Beans

Fresh, glorious veggies!

Sometimes the simplest veggies are the best, the easiest to make, and the most satisfying. I make basic veggie mixes like this several times a week; the only requirement is good and fresh vegetables. I’ll usually saute them in a combination of olive oil and butter, season them with salt and pepper and perhaps a little garlic or minced shallot. Maybe I’ll throw in a basil leaf, a fresh bay leaf, or a thyme sprig into the pan to infuse a hint of fresh greenery into the mix. Occasionally I’ll add a couple of tablespoons of white wine to the pan just to kick up the acidity a bit and breathe a little life into it.

This particular medley was made of fresh green peas, good green beans, and fresh white corn. The corn was good, but not stellar like the stuff we’ll be getting mid-summer, the green beans were fresh and firm and tasty, and the green peas were fresh and tender and sweet.

I blanched the green beans in salted water until just cooked through and then I dropped them into an ice bath to stop the cooking process. I shucked the fresh peas and then steamed them for three minutes until they were tender but just under-cooked. I added them to ice bath. After a couple of minutes I drained the beans and peas and kept them, in a strainer, off to the side while I cut the corn kernels off of the cob. I then cut the green beans into two-inch lengths. I had about one cup of each veggie. I also minced one large garlic clove and pulled out one fresh basil leaf.

I heated a sauté pan over high heat. After it was hot (but not quite smoking) I added a couple of tablespoons of butter and a tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil. I swirled the two fats together until the butter completely melted and then immediately added the corn kernels. I cracked some black pepper and scattered a bit of kosher salt over the corn. I then flipped the pan the few times to move the corn about and then added the garlic. I tossed the pan again to mix the corn and the garlic and then added a slug of white wine to the pan (perhaps about a quarter cup of Sauvignon Blanc) and then let that steam up to infuse the corn.

I added the green beans, the peas, and basil to the corn. I mixed it all together well, reduced the heat to medium, and cooked the medley another minute. I killed the heat and tested for seasoning. It needed a tiny bit of salt, but otherwise it was perfect. And perfectly delicious!

So simple, so yummy.

A note: if you can’t find fresh peas, use frozen peas. They’re perfectly acceptable and honestly one of the only frozen vegetables I ever cook. I find that the best way to defrost them prior to cooking is to pour the frozen peas into a large bowl and cover with a couple inches of water. Let them sit at room temperature for 30-45 minutes and they’ll be ready to sauté, as is.